You’re not going to stumble on Willy by mistake. Even falling asleep on a late night train isn’t going to do it as you’ll get turfed out at Newport, but it’s worth making the effort to this mini-peninsula in Hobson’s Bay. Apparently nobody really bothered making that effort until a few years’ ago, boat people and those interested in Port Phillip Bay’s history apart, but they’ve started coming in droves these days.
It’s easy to see why. Located just 15 minutes drive from the CBD over the West Gate bridge or a little longer by train, it’s a little village escape a world away from the bustle of the city and generally far more pleasant than many of its surrounding boroughs. The main shopping road and the forefront lined by Nelson Place have been suitably tarted up and, combined with the mix of yachts, fishing boats and the odd military boat floating in the harbour, retain an Old World charm reminiscent of the waterfront at Hobart.
It seems to be the sort of place where people visit then fail to leave, hence Fran’s comment on arrival: “I could see myself raising kids here.” ‘Old your ‘orses, love… So, although the aforementioned tarting up has seen the colourful buildings along Nelson Place filled with little other than restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlours and bars, there is a real opportunity to taste something of Victoria’s maritime past, from the Timeball (formerly a lighthouse) at the end of the peninsula to C Blunt’s Boatbuilders, where a fifth generation of the Blunt family is still making and repairing wooden boats 150 years after the original Clement started up fresh off the boat from England. Even if it looks closed, try the door and if Greg’s in, he’ll make you more than welcome; stepping inside is like being transported back 100 years.
And, if you’re enthused with the spirit of the port’s seafaring ancestors (Williamstown was originally going to be the colony’s capital until a lack of fresh water swung the decision Melbourne’s way), Williamstown is reachable by ferry from Southgate on the Yarra or at weekends from St Kilda Pier. Who knows, if you talk nicely enough to the locals, they might even take you out in a boat of their own.
You can eat at the many restaurants, cafes and bars. Or, if that’s a bit posh, there are always the bins…
“YEH THIS IS MY TOWN… MY TOWN!”